Monday, October 31, 2005

Hue, Vietnam

Since my last update we’ve done a few cities, Hue (pronounced whey like curds and whey) and Hoi An (the Taylor Town) and just arrived in Nha Trang (Beach Side High rise Resorts) this morning.

Hue, it’s fairly small has a very cool old town surrounded by a moat and some big walls, cool bridges over the moat and a big lit up bridge over the river. Roy did a DMZ tour, I still remember doing it from when I was here with the oldies and can’t remember it being that exciting, Roy came back saying it wasn’t at all exciting. I did have quite a funny day though, I got a push bike and went exploring looking for some breaky. I cam round a corner on the far edge of town and some young guys were training their Roosters for some cock fighting. I stopped to take a few photos. They trying the “one photo, one dollar” I laughed “no way”, they seemed happy enough just to look at photos of them selves. ( not quite the spastic fits of laugher that over took they kids in ThaTek, Laos ) I got a few photos (New camera is a bit nicer than the old) as started to sprinkle some rain, and an older guy came round the corner who could speak a bit of English.  He invited us all into some ones house to get out of the rain. We had a few cups of tea, a fair few of us crammed into the front room of some guy’s house. Once the tea was gone they pulled out the Rice Whiskey, a fairly strong tasting Metho concoction brewed in large earthenware pots. We finished off one bottle, and I paid the 80 cents for another bottle, and we got stuck into that. About halfway through that, my stomach lining started to remind me it was only 9am and I hadn’t eaten yet. I managed to get away a few shots later, promising to return that afternoon with some of the photos printed out.  I got some omelette and bread into my now Metho filled stomach, wandered back to the guest house to select the photos to print, then to a local photo lab. After dropping off the memory card I walked out into a “hello, where you from?” “Melbourne, Australia” “oooh, uhhh, Springvale, I have family in Springvale” “yeah, cool“ooh today is a happy day my Australian friend, we should go drink, and eat together” I’m a little hesitant, but with a bit of a buzz from the mornings whiskey I agree. He jumps on his motorbike, I’m on my pushy behind and we head over to the other side of town for lunch. It’s a fairly large undercover collection of plastic chairs and trestle tables, we order some food. A small esky filled with beer, water and a bit of ice is plonked at the end of our table. His English is really really good so we chatted a fair bit about Vietnam, Australia, our families and my previous visit to Vietnam. We put a reasonable dent in a massive bowl of some of the nicest fried rice I’d had in Vietnam, and some yummy prawn and veggie stir fry, and empty to beers from the esky.  The bill arrives, and he pays ( against my protests ) and then he starts reminding how good it has been to talk and drink together, and how it would be great to tell his wife about me, over a bottle of wine or whiskey that I buy for them. I feel the little “click” of things falling into place, unluckily for him I haven’t been to the atm in a few days and only had about 100,000 dong on me (about $8.50).  we head to a local shop to buy a bottle, and he leads me towards the expensive shelf of imports, I remind him of my previously stated cash situation and he begrudgingly accepts some weird looking Chinese whiskey in a funny shaped bottle. By my calculations he was still about $1 up on the deal, but I don’t think he would have been quite so generous at lunch if he had known he wasn’t gonna score bottle of import.

I’ll update on Hoi An, and put some photos of what I got made tomorrow.

Cheers
Will Cowan

Sunday, October 23, 2005

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay was very very amazing. It’s the one place we didn’t get to when I was here with the oldies that I wished we had.
We caught the bus up to HaiPhong, and spent the night there. Had dinner at a little beer hall, it had a pretty amazing assortment of meats on the menu, from eel, snake, bear, turtle, pigeon and a few we hadn’t heard of. Roy had the beef, and I had the chicken, washed down with a few of the 3000 Dong glasses of beer. I had a fair wander that evening. I had an interesting conversation with some locals that consisted of passing my Vietnamese Phrasebook around and pointing at words, ld flip to the index find the answer in English and point to the translation, I played badminton with some locals lucky they were about 3 hours and 6 beers into their game so I didn’t go to badly, and got my self lost about 3 or 4 times. That night we went out to the big discothèque in town. 2 Security guards opened the big doors for you, you had to go through a big industrial themed air lock inside there was loads of bad music (Asian guys mc’ing over horrible dance music). The guys uniforms were this slight umpaloompa / Cabbage patch kid cross over, bad Hawaiian shirt but with bright orange overalls on, it’s also the first bar I’ve been to that had a bunch of podium dancers.
The next morning we caught the ferry to Cat Ba Island, Vietnam’s only populated island and the gateway to Ha Long Bay. We caught up with James, Camilla and Maria, well a hotel hustler at the pier did his spiel about his hotel, then said “ohhh you know English man and 2 Swedish womans, uuuuummm Mr James, yes yes?” and he gestured to his hotel and from the top balcony the 3 were waving at us.
We had a day at the beach and another fairly big night of drinking games. The next morning, bright and early headed down to meet for our boat trip.
The boat wasn’t quite as plush as advertised in the brochure, but it looked nice and cosy. We had a very cool few days, doing the usual, watch amazing scenery, eat, swim, kayak, more amazing scenery (there are about 3000 islands dotted around this fairly big bay, jutting out of the ocean with caves and floating villages and stuff scattered in between), swim, jump off the boat, go through caves, eat, drink, swim, play more drinking games, swim (they have the wickedest phosphor fluorescent algae, like swimming in pixie dust) and then sleep. Then eat swim etc. We made it back to Hanoi yesterday evening and pretty much crashed out.
Over the last few weeks my cameras been getting very dodgy, loads of really blurry photos, during the boat trip instead of turning on it just sorta beeped at me. I’m guessing it got damp during the hill tribe trek, and again during this boat trip.
So today I lashed out, and bought a new camera, had to be done. If insurance plays nice I’ll be out of pocket about $200 due to the upgrade, but this will have to sit on my credit card for a while until it’s sorted out.  On the upside, I’ve got a 7 mega pixel digicam now.
Tonight we catch the bus to Hue, it’s meant to be a fairly unpleasant 14 hour trip, but it’s a fraction of the cost of a sleeper train, so it’s got to be done.
Photos are online here

Monday, October 17, 2005

The Best of Thailand



Click the image above to see a collection of some of my favorite Thailand photos.

Hope you enjoy.

We made it to Vietnam

We made it to Vietnam the 23 hour bus ride wasn’t too bad at all. There was plenty of space on the bus (no livestock either) we spent from about 5.30pm til 1.30am.  I read my first book of my travels and knocked over “High Fidelity” during the first leg. Just as I finished, the bus pulled over. It was there that a Vietnamese guy who was really helpful told us we were at the border town and that the border opens at 8am and showed us upstairs and showed us our bedrooms. It was just a normal basic mattress and mozi net. Roy and I shared a room the two Swedes who we had chatted to had the other room and I’m guessing the non-farangs stayed downstairs.
We were woken up as to some fast talking Vietnamese woman who turned on a light upstairs (my initial reaction is “what the fuck is some one doing talking so loud in our guest house for”) the friendly guy advised us simply “we go now” and with in 30 seconds the bus driver was honking profusely hurrying every one up, never mind a quick freshen up or even a chance to go for a piss.
The border crossing was fairly standard show passport, give money, fill in forms, rinse, and repeat. We even had to stick out luggage through an airport style scanner. I have my serious doubts it was very effective as the guy manning the monitor was buttering his toast as my luggage went through, and the examination table has this massive big spider web stretched from the middle of the table onto the wall next to it.
So from about 9am until 6.30pm we sent getting from the border to Hanoi. I pulled out my laptop and me and Roy watch Motorcycle Diaries, it was a really good film, made me wanna do a bike mission again (only huge this time) , and also go to South America.
Compared with Laos, Vietnam is fucking busy, even the country side is packed. People here don’t have front yards, every square foot of space is growing some sort of crop. I had also forgotten what the air is like here, you can stare at the sun in the middle of the day it just looks like a orange full moon. I also had forgotten what a bunch of dodgy mother fuckers Vietnamese can be. The normal, “Free taxi to my guest house”, no we are meeting friends at this place, “OK I get mini bus for you to take you to your place”, 3 stops of “come see my guest house” or blatant lie of “OK this is your guest house”, it comes to fuck this we’ll just get out and walk.
But we finally made it, had a nice (but expensive) meal of Indian, and went out for a beer. It’s 11pm now so time for another beer, then we go explore the city a bit tomorrow then up to Ha Long Bay.
As usual I’ve bought a new sim card and chucked my old Laos one in the pile. My new Vietnamese phone number is +84915449586.
Tomorrow I’ll organize my photos a bit better and finalise my “Best of Thailand” and my “Best of Laos” collections.

Cheers
Will Cowan

Saturday, October 15, 2005

Good Night Laos, Good Evening Vietnam

Well, the lat few days I've spent on the back of a motorbike, just a random cruise. Picked a few spots on the map and tried to get there. Laos seems allot drier than i expected, long straight gravel roads and an amazing amount of eucalyptus trees make it fel quite homely.I met some really nice and interesting people, the only people down there who can speak English are those who have come to Vientiane to study, so not many. They were very friendly and very eager to get a bit of English practice in. It was especially cool because of the Mekong River Boat Racing festival that’s happening in a few days.  Each place I went to had a little sideshow alley games and there were loads of people out.  There are a few photos of the trip here. During the trip i managed to go a full 24 hours with out seeing another white face and in Thahkuk where i stayed there were 2 tourists and 5 Europeans in the whole city. As you would expect, there wasn’t a internet cafĂ© in sight, so the competition winners who have been waiting since Wednesday can now have their moment of glory.

Julia Goulia, with her slightly morbid but excellently written Haiku

    Death. Dodgy Thai food.
    Gravy bum, vomit then dead.
    Tragedy, despair.

Takes out the first prize, and receives a yet to be found secret bonus prize.

Dave the Tree ( also known as David Relf ) posted a spirited little limerick and takes out the runners up prize with…..

    There once was a man called Will
    Who wasn't the run of the mill..
    An elephant he rode
    His plumber's crack showed
    My word did he feel like a dill!

To every one else, thanks or entering, to people who didn’t enter, you’re a bunch of slack bastards. I‘ll get in contact with the winners and work out how to get the prize pack. You also have to choose a lucky rock, so I’ll take some better photos of those in Hanoi.

Oh yeah, this evening we take a 23 hour bus ride to Hanoi, Arriving some time tomorrow evening. If some cunt spews on me I’ll fucking stab him. But I’m hoping for a nice relaxing trip the normal dose of chilled tunes, a few beers and some sleeping tablets should make it fairly pain free……

cheers

Monday, October 10, 2005

Vientiane, Laos

Well we Tuk Tuk'ed and kayaked down to Vientiane, It was a nice enjoyable trip, a few bigish rapids but nothing scary. It sure was heaps better then getting spewed on in a local bus. The day before had been really good, we got dropped off up river and kayaked down, the scenery was fucking amazing. Crazy hills jutting out of bright green rice paddies, It was a fairly relaxing and beautiful few hours of paddling. We stopped off to do a quick inner tube mission into a cave, an underwater river. The cave wasn’t amazing but it was still a cool experience floating about in an underwater river is aways gonna have atleast novelty value. We had lunch and then saw the Elephant Cave. The Elephant cave was pretty lame, like if it was at a mates place you would think it was cool, but when a tour guide takes you there it was a bit “oh is this it, ohh, ok” it did have a Buddha statue and stuff in it, and one of the rocks looked a bit like an elephant.
Near the end of the trip we arrived into the area of the river where they do the tubing. The general gist (It’s the main thing people do in Vang Vieng) is you hire an inner tube, get a Tuk Tuk to drop you off up the river a bit, jump in and float down. Of cause one of the greatest things about Laos is Beer Lao, and some of the great places you get to drink it. This is definitely one of them, you get to float down a river with little bars along the way, and each bar has something special to get the tourists in, a big swing, flying fox, or just something high to jump of into the river. The people at the bars have huge bamboo poles they use to help drag people onto dry land so they can drink more Beer Lao. The bar we spent a bit of time at had a fairly good sized flying fox and you could also jump off the platform the flying fox was attached to. It reminded me of down b the river during Earthcore, big stereo, sunny weather and loads of beer. It was fucking cool. I think it takes most people about 4 or 5 hours to do the trip, although that only involves about half an hour of floating time.
I also got to teach an English class that evening as well, it was pretty cool. I was nervous and didn’t really have a lot to say. I did months of the year with the little kids, they were pretty cool, very eager to learn. I started doing telling the time, and clocks and shit with the older ones, but then just talked about Australia and what I’m doing travelling around. Nearly all of them were very shy and didn’t want to ask any questions, but bit by bit a few did. I sorta ran through my answers and wrote them up on the whiteboard and helped explain any of the less common words I had used.
All in all it was very cool, I could really imagine doing a solid two weeks next time I’m in the area. It would be heaps better once you get to know the kids and know what sorta levels they are at.
For the lat few days we have just been chilling out and drinking in Vientiane, we spent a bit of time with an aussie called Kate who we had met kayaking. She is just about to finish 2 years of work in Cambodia, and said it was all pretty amazing there. Mainly we have been drinking at this Mexican bar with Rowena and David from England. A few Beer Lao and then a mission to some other bar for a few more Beer Lao. Today we applied for our Vietnamese visas and then tried to head out to the Beer Lao brewery, but were too late to take a tour. Hopefully we’ll get another chance.
Tomorrow I hope to get a bike nice and earlyish and go motorbike up to the Plain of Jars, I’m thinking I’ll spend the few days it takes for our visas to get processed. It would be nice to be out of the cities for a while.

Cheerio,
Will Cowan

Thursday, October 06, 2005

Vang Vieng, Laos

Today we are in Vang Veing, a fairly quite little town, luckily more hustle and bustle than Laung Probang. Laung Probang was nice though, a funny bit of charm but not quite that lively especially this time of year. We did go check out the local waterfall, biggest nicest waterfall I've ever seen, and a wicked walk up the side when you can walk sorta along into the side of the waterfall, getting a bit wet along the way but very very cool. On the way back the bus driver stopped off at a small village with some kids selling wrist bands, it was sorta weird cute but poor and dirty kids, cuts and scabs and stuff I gave them my lucky pen, and some post cards that I had planned to send to people, one with an few elephants and another with some of the northern Thai hill tribe kids (the ones who use the rings to elongate their necks) it was quite cool seeing them blow out at that. It had an odd zoo vibe, weird feeling of helplessness and that we should have been able to help more. Photos here

When we got back from the waterfall we were carted off to the bus station to get the local bus down to Vang Vieng, it all started off fairly well a local told us it was about an 8 hour journey, a smidge longer than the 6 or so the guy who sold us our ticket had said. There was a fairly scruffy plain clothed guy who paced the bus and kept watch up the front, packing an AK47. It was odd, we saw plenty of security guards, ticket inspectors, police and army staff in Thailand, all with the most immaculate uniforms, just to see some dude in his trackie dacks and a rifle under his Nike jacket didn't really fill me with the utmost confidence. Any way, about 45 minutes in, I see the local sitting in the seat in front, fumble with his window, he manages to open it just in time for what was probably a 60/40 split of out the window vs. over the side of his seat and window spew. Sitting right behind him I got a lovely bit of splash back down my legs, and a small cascade over my bag ( laptop camera iPods inside of cause ) hmm not to worry only 8 hours to go…….

The rest wasn't too bad really, I did get a chance to clean up a bit after a few hours, and a tamazapan and plenty of chill tunes on the iPod helped me eventually catch a few Z's. We arrived in the middle of the night in what seemed to be a total ghost town, knocked a few guest house doors until we found one with some one who would wake up stumble over with a key hand it to us, point at a bungalow then head back to bed.

The next morning I scored a wicked mulberry pancake at "The Organic Farm Cafe" a little ( mainly mulberry) but all sortsa other stuff organic farm near town that is heavily involved in some good local projects. Over a cup of local organic mulberry leaf tea, I spied a little advert saying they had after school English lessons up at the community Centre and were asking for volunteers to go help out with a class or two.

I went up to the farm to suss it out, and was told they were happy for me to take a class that afternoon of about 40 five to ten year olds. The young Korean volunteer (who's name I've forgotten) and an Aussie couple who were around 30ish wandered up to the Community Centre, I met three of the kids along the way who spoke the cutest, Hello my name is ….. It is nice to meet you…. English. It was pretty funny, I introduced my self to one, so the others quickly ran over to shake my hand and say hello and introduce them selves.

We waited around and about 25 kids turned up, there were a fair few chunky storm clouds in the sky, and some were dumping rain onto the mountains nearby, the volunteer said that some kids cant get back from class easily if it rains, and that normally more turn up. I was pretty nervous, she pretty much just said, ok get up in front, I'll introduce you to the class, then just teach them some English. I was happy with only 25 and not 40. Any ways, me up in the front writing on the blackboard, "Hello, my name is Will. I am from Australia", and crash, thunder, lightning and the clatter of rain on the tin roof. About half of them were already up and heading for the door, the other quickly writing down what I had written on the black board before doing them same.

Unfortunately that was it for my experience of teaching English in Laos, I'm gonna try and get back there tonight, we have booked some kayaking already and I'm not overly sure I'll get back in time, which sucks 'cos I really would have liked to. I've even though up a bit of a lesson plan now. I think it's a must do next holiday activity, a quick scuba dive down south, a few weeks ( or more ) chilling in Pai, then Laos for some time teaching English here and helping out with the community projects…

I'll let you know how it goes if I get another chance at a lesson…..

Well, I've had had two slightly morbid entries into the competition, keep up the good work, keep em flowing and there is no rule saying only one entry per person….

Cheers.

Will Cowan

Monday, October 03, 2005

Fuck, its been Two Months, We're halfway done

Yesterday we crossed the border from Thailand to Laos (two days after our visas expired), Its crazy to think its been over two months in Thailand. We had a fair blinder of a last night in Pai and on Friday morning we headed to Chiang Mai. Pang, a friend from Pai who was picking up her things from Chaing Mai and moving more permanently to Pai joined us for the weekend. Pai really was fantastic, I managed two weeks there but could have done many many more, relaxed, fun and super super friendly.
Some of my funniest moments would have to be the Vegemite, Marmite, Yellow T-shirt Incident. Chuiwawa’s a funny one, during a conversation Chessy, Irene and I were having regarding the merits of Vegemite and Marmite. We were comparing the similarities of the packaging when I realised that lids were both yellow and probably fitted the other Jar. I tried it out and they did, we had a bit of a laugh and continued with the conversation. Chuiwawa, who had been listening in but didn’t have much to say, (Thai people aren’t that big on the yeast extract) returned back in the room with 2 yellow T-shirts, we looked at the lids, looked at the t-shirts laughed and the girls did a quick swap and put the shits on. Chuiwawa came back in with a t-shirt for me as well, now I’m not sure how or why (we weren’t even exceptionally drunk) but we ended up with a fairly big series of photos of us in the kitchen holding any thing yellow we could find. I still wish I could find out what Chuiwawa had read from the conversation…. Photos are here
Roy’s birthday was a great night, me and Chessy spending a wicked arts and craft arvo. HAPPY BIRTHDAY ROY started of with drawing the letters, then cutting them out with a little Stanley knife, then to just free hand cutting, then just tearing letters out by hand from scraps of crepe paper. To see Francesca and Chessy walking the streets of Pai with a 10 metre long string of giant balloons and a big poster was very very worth it.
It was interesting to be there during some descent flooding as well, some parts of town were waist deep in water. The army came in early that morning helped every one evacuate, the water came through, deposited about 10cms of mud, and then receded. The people came back started cleaning up and submitting forms for financial relief from the government. No hysteria, screaming, running or panicking, people just went about the jobs that needed to be done, helping neighbors and friends when they could. The Main bridge out of town got washed away, and so were a few of the smaller ones up river, If one of you guys from Pai is reading this, let me know how the repair work is going. Photos from the flood and clean up are here.
Roy finally bought a new camera in Chiang Mai and I finally got a hair cut. I’m well impressed with it actually it was a little on the pricier end at 90 baht (around $3). It was great having a local to guide and translate. Just a little off putting when you walk into hair dressers, Pang and the hair dresser have a 10 second private conversation in front of you, both turn to me and nod, so I sit down and she starts chopping at my hair. We also went to a BBQ Buffet, each table has a little charcoal bbq with a ring around the hot plate that you fill with broth. You grab a plate and grab what you want from a big table of raw meats, greens and noodles. You fill the ring with soup chuck a wad of fat on the top of the hotplate and start laying bits of meat around the top. Seafood, greens and noodles go in the soupy stuff and you just graze on what you can cook on this little stove. It really was quite fun.

OK, to celebrate the halfway point of my trip, and to thank all the very cool people I’ve met in Thailand I’m giving any one who reads this, the chance to win one of two great Prize Packs. It’s nice and simple, in 100 words or less do a quick story on an experience you think I’m going to have while traveling. You get extra points if it rhymes, and if it’s a haiku you get an extra prize. So courtesy of me, First Prize (as judged by Me, Roy, and any one we meet when we need to judge this thing) is one unopened pack of L&M Lights, complete with Thai Teeth warning photo, one genuine Hill Tribe friendship bracelet, and a choice of one of the Lucky Rocks that I got from the river during Chuiwawa’s Adventure. Runner Up gets all the same but with out the pack of smokes, I’ll post them any where in the world. Entries close Monday the Tenth of October ( 1 week from today ) and must be posted, in the comments section of www.willcowan.com , or emailed to me. Chogde Kap everyone.


Cheers
Will Cowan
Http://www.WillCowan.com
http://photos.WillCowan.com

Prize Pack


Prize Pack, originally uploaded by Will Cowan.

First Prize is the Ciggies, a Wrist Band and first pick of a lucky rock, runner up recieves a rock of their choice and a wrist band as well.

On another note, i got a new sim card for while I'm in Laos the number is +856207773157.
Keep your eye out for the up an coming "Wife Beater Photo Comp" get your early entries into Wifebeatercomp@willcowan.com stay tuned for more details.